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The Foundation:
Building
a Monolithic Dome Using an Integrated Floor System
by Kris
Garrison
Reprinted
from The Roundup, Winter 1999
When it comes
to building a Monolithic Dome's foundation, do-it-yourselfers have a choice:
they can contract the concrete work, or with able-bodied help they can
tackle the job themselves. "But," cautions MDI Vice President Gary L.
Clark, "foundation forms set improperly could cause concrete to pour over
the forms so meticulous neatness is needed, and if building on a hill
or flood plain it's best to consult a concrete contractor."
The Finished Product |
Since a Monolithic Dome's strength comes from the building ' not its foundation ' a Monolithic Dome's foundation doesn't require the vertical strength that a conventional structure requires. In areas with slow ground movement, an integrated floor foundation is used so the shell and dome will move together. (Airform orders include detailed information. For domes larger than 50' diameter, contact MDI for special construction considerations.) |
1)
Prepare Pad
Use a non-expansive fill such as sand and gravel.
(Check with a contractor or supplier for best fill type for your location.)
Consider a vapor barrier when pouring any concrete floor. The vapor
barrier can be heavy plastic under the sand under the floor, or after
the floor has cured, you can apply a vapor barrier coating directly
to the concrete. |
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2)
Set Benchmark and Level Pad
Set a ground stake as a benchmark
that becomes the center point and the spot to call "level." Level
the pad in relationship to your benchmark. |
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3)
Dig Trench
Just inside form boards, dig a trench to provide:
a vertical concrete wall that keeps animals from digging under house;
a reveal so lawn doesn't come up to floor level; an area for the
ring beam. Rebar is placed in this trench, whose depth is determined
by need for frost protection and/or reveal. |
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4)
Set Form Boards
Place plywood, cut to proper height, horizontally
around pad's perimeter. Attach boards with screws to wooden stakes
placed about 12" apart. Check form boards and pad for levelness. |
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5)
Conduits, Piping, Water, Sewer Lines
Utility and communication
(Internet, TV, phone) lines can be placed under the slab. Copper pipes,
without joints or welds that reduce chances of leakage, are recommended
for under-the-slab water lines. Generally homeowners can install these
provisions, but some locations require licensed electricians and plumbers.
And some areas require a vapor barrier: large piece of plastic that
covers the fill and prevents water irrigation through the floor. |
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6)
Rebar Placement
Dome openings require extra uprights at their
sides and additional rebar in the ring beam foundation. Lay foundation
rebar in horizontal grid pattern across pad. Use plastic chairs to
raise rebar off pad. In expansive soil, place additional rebar in
radial pattern around perimeter. Engineering specifications and dome
size determine rebar amount and size. |
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7)
Pouring Concrete
Hire contractor to mix and pour or have able-bodies
help you. Cover the floor with a plastic sheet, or use a hose to keep
the concrete wet for a few days so it will cure properly. |
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8)
Measure for Uprights
To mark placement for uprights, after floor
is poured and troweled to desired smoothness but still wet, make 'X'
in concrete, 5' from inside of form board and approximately 10' to
12' apart around perimeter. |
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9)
Set Uprights
At 'X,' wet-set into foundation's perimeter pieces
of L-shaped rebar approximately 4" long. |
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10)
Prepare Keyway
Keyway is a groove dug out of the wet concrete
that's approximately 1" deep and 2" to 3" wide; it surrounds perimeter
where uprights are placed and locks dome shell to foundation. After
uprights cure into the concrete, bend them parallel to foundation.
Cover entire floor and bent uprights with plastic. You are now ready
to attach Airform.
Note: The notch can be eliminated by using a rough surface like that created by a notched trowel the width of the shell for the dome to sit on. |
11)
Thermal Break
After
the dome is constructed, a thermal break may be advisable. This can
be 2" of Styrofoam or 1" of polyurethane foam applied to the exterior
surface of the footing wall, then coated, backfilled or plastered. |
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